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6

Lots of opinins but not much metallurgical knowledge.....reminds me of hotroders thinking something is better if its made out of billet instead 6061 AL (same thing). Where's that crazy smilie? Carbon steel is actually a misnomer, in many industries carbond steel is refered to a mild steel alloy that isn't stailness. What our knives are made of is a medium ...


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Any knife that has a symetrical blade profile should be ambidexterous in use. Santoku and chef knives typically come with a symmetrical profile1, so you should be able to get a decent choice, whichever of the types you finally choose. Whether you chose a V-shaped or double-bevel, a hollow cut or a convex blade is ultimately up to you, your intended uses and ...


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Very blunt knives need to be reworked by stone or sandpaper The edge on a very blunt blade will have folded over itself and lost a lot of its proper crystal structure. It's also likely to have lost a lot of its bevel geometry too, so the edge won't be "straight" longitudinally. Your best bet would be to invest, just one time, in sending it in for ...


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A more modern set... Disclosure: I'm on the board of directors for a high end knife company. The traditional advice given to young home cooks has been to get something like: 8" chef's knife 4" paring knife Bread knife (performs a common task that the other knives cannot). However, knife materials and home cooking skills have improved quite a bit over ...


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Many home cooks use utility knives more often than paring knives Reasons: Home cooking often involves "one off" tasks like cutting fruit, tomatoes, onions, etc Utility knives can be made very sharp because the shorter blade allows for much thinner steel, which reduces friction on food while, promotes better cutting precision, and helps support greater ...


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A utility knife does what a chef's knife does, but not as well, and is intended to paired with a different chef's knife than what 99% of home cooks use. It may sound redundant, but I think of it this way: a utility knife is cheaper, usually smaller, lighter, easier to use/sharpen/clean, and less intimidating for someone who isn't in the kitchen much. Chef's ...


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I have for years used sandpaper for sharpening and polishing my plane blades and bench chisels in my woodworking shop. It works wonderfully well provided every stroke on the abrasive is exactly the same angle. Remember that the cutting edge is the union of two planes. The more uniform the planes, the sharper the edge. I finish off with 6000 grit wet paper, ...


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You actually can sharpen a ceramic knife with a diamond wheel sharpener. There's 2 sharpeners that can sharpen ceramic knives. Kyocera has a battery powered one (DS50) http://www.amazon.com/Kyocerca-DS-50-Electric-Diamond-Sharpener/dp/B002R90N7W But based on the reviews it's designed mainly for Kyocera knives, and it's battery powered so it doesn't ...


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Yes, there is a difference The ridges on a honing rod provide greater curvature at the point of contact between the rod and the blade. This has the effect of increasing the contact pressure (force is concentrated over a smaller arc). Some reasons you might want to increase contact pressure: You're sharpening a very hard knife (e.g. carbon steel) You're ...


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A pull-through sharpener will never do as thorough a job at sharpening your knife as a stone, and over time will lose its efficacy and actually dull your blade. In a pinch they can be useful, but be sure to give the knife a few passes on a good quality steel afterwards, as the pull-through sharpeners tend to remove metal quite coarsely.


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I have a a few of each I don't k ow much about the science behind the making of them but personally I find I can get a super sharp edge on my carbon steel knives in no time at all which they hold well where as it takes me longer to get a no where near as sharp edge on my stainless steel knives and they don't hold it as long. This however could simply be my ...


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As I am sure you can tell by looking at it, your Japanese knife is primarily sharpened only on one side. As a result, the cutting edge is angled more steeply. Japaneseknives on Wordpress has some simple pictures illustrating this. This asymmetry is why you can't reliably use a honing rod on it, which relies on swipes to both sides of the edge to keep the ...


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Hot water provides perfectly acceptable sanitizing without corrosive chemicals I'd not want in my food anyway... Immerse in hot water that is 77C (171F) for 30 seconds. Reference here.


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Sorry before I go on, the cleavers you chose are specifically for butchering and the cutting of bones right? Ok, if this is the case there is a hybrid cleaver which is a very traditional Chinese butchers cleaver. It is made by Chan Chee Ki, or the initial CCK. There are two of them, one called "Big Rhino" and appropriately the other is called "Little ...


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Let's start with the requirements... For cutting large blocks of meat it's good to have: Long edge - This will minimize the number of cutting strokes needed, resulting in a cleaner cut. Low friction geometry - Raw meat is quite sticky, so a short blade height can help reduce friction from the product as you slice. Other geometry features which can help ...


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I found this on chefknivestogo and I think it explains it quite well. RAY <> A "50/50" usually references an edge. So on the cutting edge, it is an even 50/50 "V". It can be 50/50 at 12 degrees or 50/50 @20, but each sides angle is equivocal. A double bevel is a knife design created by grinding. So from the spine to the cutting edge, there is a ...


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Hone frequently, sharpen periodically A proper, sharp knife will have a well structured, rigid, and sharp blade bevel (i.e. the very edge of the blade, less than a hair's length across, where the steel comes to a point). No matter how hard the steel is, the bevel will wear with cutting so it needs to be maintained. Hone yourself Honing is the process of ...


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It depends, but here's how you can tell... It's good practice to hone knives often (I recommend once a day or before you use the knife for a session). Honing helps center the edge of the knife, prevent edge folding and nicking, and provides structural support for the edge. Despite regular honing, a knife blade will eventually wear through a variety of ...


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It depends on what you're cutting It also depends on how deep the channel is. The purpose of the channels is to reduce the surface area of the knife that comes into contact with the food you're cutting. The lower that surface area, the lower the friction for cutting. There are a number of ways to reduce surface area: Use channels Use a shorter blade ...


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I would suggest getting a single, long sujihiki style knife with the following features: High-carbon stainless or carbon steel - This will help maintain a sharp edge with good retention. Carbon steel needs to be kept very dry to avoid rusting, so it's a little harder to maintain. Comfortable grip - Cutting sushi involves long, repeated and consistent ...


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There is a lot of confusion between: -Awase knives, which use layering (2 or 3 layers) of different steels for performance reasons. Sanmai, Warikomi, Nimai are types of this technology. These can look like normal cutlery except for a visible, somewhat irregular looking transition line near the edge (looks like a hamon line on a differentially hardened sword ...


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Buy them for looks, not for performance Blades marketed as "Damascus" can have very different origins: Antique blades made using the lost historical art of Damascus steel making (look it up on Wikipedia but this category is not relevant for the SA forum) Blades forged and hammered using layers of the same or different metals to create the layered ...


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It depends on a few different factors There is no single optimal hardness for a chef's knife. It depends on: The geometry of the blade The alloy used (two different alloys at the same hardness will have different vulnerability to chipping, edge retention, etc) The mix of cutting styles (slice, push, chop) ...and more Generally high performance chef's ...


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VG-10 is a very versatile steel, which is exactly why it's popular with high-end chef's knives and gyutos. You should be able to use the gyuto with most cutting techniques except: Hard chopping - hard steel (even VG-10) is more prone to chipping, and gyutos are not really designed to support this movement Cutting very hard products - Cutting a pit stone, ...


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I'm not a metallurgist, but when I received my knife sharpening training, it was explained to me that the steel was used to align the microscopic raggedy edge of the knife after sharpening into a "foil", like a fine fin along the tip of the edge of the knife. Depending on what I'm cutting, the fin works like a scalpel. If I'm making fine cuts to meat, I ...


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You're over thinking this. Just toss it in the bin. There are plenty of other dangerous sharp things in bins already. Eg, broken glass, tin cans/lids, etc. Anyone going through bins (eg Freegans, garbage disposal workers, super spy's jumping out of buildings) knows to take precautions (or will learn quickly). Odds are that no one will go through your bin on ...



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