After I found the pack of microwave popcorn again I decided to do a quick search on the English web.
I found that the corn in the bag is just normal popcorn mixed with some fake butter and that there'd be no issues popping it on the stove.
Then I looked for good ways of popping corn on a stove and found an excellent video with step-by-step instructions.
You need to realize that oil doesn't splatter, water does. In fact, you could heat oil until it catches fire without any mayor movement.
But the moment water reaches the oil, which in a hot pan is way beyond the boiling point for water, it will instantly turn into steam, expand and pull oil drops with it.
So apart from lowering the heat - which is not what ...
You can make pasta in your water boiler.
Hard to clean.
Waste of energy, a water boiler is on or off, it will
expend full energy keeping the water boiling.
Incredibly dangerous, a big fire hazard. Because it's modified to ignore the internal temperature sensor it will keep heating and
heating even if all the water is vaporized. ...
No, you can't.
You should always assume glass is not safe to use on the stovetop. Essentially none of it is, and while there are a very few exceptions, they'll say so explicitly. (For example this set says stovetop-safe in the description.)
That bowl is nothing special, definitely not stovetop-safe - it'd shatter under the thermal stress. If you look ...
They don't correspond to a temperature, they correspond to a rate of heat input.
The elements in your oven are connected to a thermostat with regulates their temperature, they are really constant heat/fixed temperature devices, like the heat in your home. The oven turns the elements on and off to regulate temperature, but the elements are only ever ON or ...
Where do you live? European Pyrex is made from borosilicate glass, the same as in laboratory's equipment; American Pyrex is made from common soda-lime glass.
If you are in America, don't bother trying it at all; soda-lime glass is sensitive to thermal shock. Even though it's tempered for kitchenware, it is nowhere near good enough for the burner.
It is not a property of the stove (or the markings on it). Words like "medium heat" actually refer to the speed at which your food is cooking, and there are a lot of factors which contribute to that. Beyond the energy output of your burners, there is the type of stove (electric, gas, induction), the thermodynamic properties of your pan, the relation of pan ...
I would absolutely not recommend heating Pyrex with any type of direct heat, ever.
That stuff goes off like a hand-grenade, highly dangerous - not to mention messy.
I've seen it happen too many times for it to be even vaguely worth the risk; even when accidentally placed on recently switched-off hobs.
Pyrex is a low-expansion glass. However, low-...
My name is Tom Wirt, with Clay Coyote Pottery. I'll try to shed some light on the intricacies of clay cooking pots, especially tagines.
You can use any flameware tagine directly on the glass stovetop. This includes, Emile Henry, Le Crueset, and Clay Coyote flameware. These are pots with either a metal base (Le Crueset) , or a type of ceramic called ...
you free up one burner in your stovetop, and one pot
you might damage your equipment in the long term (starch might get in places where it shouldn't, and metallic parts will get damaged by the salt)
you can't boil clean water in that boiler anymore (I doubt it will be easy to clean)
if it doesn't have a temperature control, it ...
From the PyrexLove FAQ:
Is it all right to use my vintage Pyrex directly on the stove?
We’d like to just nip this one in the bud and say - NO. Some pieces
actually say “Not for stovetop”, but we never put vintage pyrex bowls,
casseroles or whatever directly on the stove, ever. You can try it,
but we’d rather not risk it.
But we do get a ...
For a domestic kitchen a few thousand BTU is plenty as you will rarely need to heat more than a few liters of liquid.
In a professional kitchen you might be asked to prepare a 30-litre portion of soup or broth or make 5 kilos of dry pasta at once.
Doing that on a domestic range would take ages and that is not something you want in a kitchen. And with the ...
In the oven, that heat is coming from all directions more or less equally. On the stovetop, the heat is coming only from the bottom. This can potentially cause convection, and almost certainly requires occasional stirring (especially for larger batches), meaning that the ingredients are being moved around. The combination of the ingredients being heated more ...
I wouldn't risk it. Aluminum melts at 660°C and a gas flame is much hotter than that. Of course, the heat dissipates rapidly when you go away from a small flame, but these disposable pans are awfully thin and can quickly heat a lot. They are meant for the oven, which practically never exceeds 300°C.
If you really have no pan to melt it in think of some ...
You can lower the temperature to simmer and reduce your sauce, it will take a longer time, but will do the job.
Have a look at splatter screens at your local stores (or online)
Or just put the pot lid on with a wooden spoon to keep it slightly ajar.
No. Tried it today melting some butter on a low heat and it exploded violently sending glass shards in a 1 metre radius. Suprised me as I remembered using Pyrex test tubes over a Bunsen burner in science class. Won't be trying that again. Epic fail!
I strongly advise against doing it. I tried stovetop seasoning at home and got terrible results.
A stove gives you hot spots - on gas, this will be the ring where the flame touches the metal. The temperature of the metal in this hot spot is way too high, and the oil burns instead of polymerizing. You get some oil-charcoal in this place, which doesn't have ...
Fortunately, temperatures don't usually need to be as precise in stovetop cooking as in baking. When you do need precise temperatures, you can stick a thermometer in the pan. This can be useful for tempering chocolate, scalding milk, deep frying, candy making, etc.
The real problem with stovetop heat settings is that the knob on your stove only controls ...
(a proper cast iron one, mind you)
Put your dutch oven on the stove top with the lid on, and turn on the heat until it gets hot
Place the thing(s) to be baked inside (but not directly touching the sides or bottom; a little rack or other standoff will be helpful)
Put the lid back on and turn the heat way down
Wait. And this is a bit of a problem ...
It looks like your standard advice is to use a diffuser.
The need for a diffuser when used in conjunction with any electric cook top seems pretty universal across all tangine material types while browsing other manufacturers sites.
Diffusers come in various materials ranging from tin, to steel, to aluminized steel, and cast iron. The Nordic steel ...
Here is what cook surface temperatures correspond to these labels:
High: 450° to 650°+
Medium-High: 375° to 449°
Medium: 325° to 374°
Medium-Low: 250° to 324°
Low: < 225° to 249°
On my electric stove, I've so far roughly figured out this system, using an IF thermometer, measuring a matte cooking surface:
High: 5 to 10 = 465° to 700°
Medium-High: 4.0 = ...
Butter melts at such a low temp that this would work. You would want as low a flame as you can.
I would not recommend it, however. If you forget it the metal is thin enough to burn through and at least make a mess- worst case it will ignite the butter, atomize the aluminum which will unverifiably hasten the onset of Alzheimer's, and burn your house to the ...
Matching the size of pan to size of burner is the most important consideration for creating a cooking surface with even temperature. Parts of the pan bottom that reach beyond an electric element will not heat well at all and could remain a hundred degrees or more lower in temperature than the center of the pan, depending on the pan size and design. (Yes, I'...
It sounds like you had a lucky escape. It's not temperature itself that would damage stoneware as it's fired at over 1000C in manufacture (Wikipedia). Differential thermal expansion is what breaks things, e.g. heating the base much faster than the sides, or heating a thin layer quickly before the rest has time to warm through. By preheating it slowly you ...
No, your stove is fine to look at.
If it is actually an induction stove, then the red would just be a light to let you know it's on. The actual induction heating won't make the cooktop glow red.
You might just have an electric glass/ceramic cooktop, though, in which case the heating will make it glow red, but it's still safe. Things glowing from heat are ...
A simple Google search yielded the following
All ovens are vented one way or another. You would not want to heat up the air in a sealed chamber because of thermal expansion. It would explode due to the heat expanding because it has no way to vent. A vent is also needed to vent fumes and by products that burn ...
Given that PTFE (Teflon) tape is meant for use on drinking water pipes, and PTFE is used for non-stick cookware (which gets much hotter than a kettle spout), I'd happily use it (the type for potable water).
Making a habit of consuming it probably isn't a good idea but flecks of non stick coating do sometimes get into food, without poisoning anyone.
I bought a used cooktop off ebay once that did the same thing. I discovered it to be one of the dials which was catching in the ignite position (although the dial didn't look depressed).
Give the dials a good workout when the ignitor is clicking away--you might release the switch.
That fixed it for me and I soon identified the culprit dial. Every so often ...